Megos: Better than his forecast, but the final remains a dream - place

Megos was ninth in the qualification in Combined mode from Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The first eight of the Quali denies the final at the Olympic premiere of this sport on Thursday.

Megos with personal best time a place better than expected

Megos closed the speed competition as an 19th of a total of 20 athletes. He was better than expected. "If it runs normally with the others, then I will last in the speed," Megos said shortly before the kick-off. Speed ​​was ultimately feared as a fear, because in bouldering and in the lead, his achievements were loose for the final.

When bouldering, Megos Sixth, the same place he also reached in his parade discipline, the rope climbing. Since all individual results are multiplied in the Olympic combined mode, the 19th place in the speed extremely negatively affected the overall result - with 684 points he landed on the thankable ninth place - and that, though he with a time of 7.47 Seconds for the 15-meter wall made a personal best time.

Personal best time in the Speed: Alex Megos. Getty Images

Strong start when bouldering

In bouldering, Megos was in good hands from the beginning, reached the top grip at the first of four boulder problems. At the extremely heavy second boulder, he was the first athlete who made the zone handle at all - only Tomoa Narasaki (Japan) and the extremely heavily upgrading Mickael Mawem (France) came at the top of this route. Under the stroke, a further top grip would have been enough for the boulder Megos, and the final participation would have been scratched. At lead climbing, Megos came to ranked six with a rating of 36+.

Hojer becomes twelfth of the overall standings

Jan Hojer, the second Dav climber in Tokyo, landed in the overall class on the twelfth place. Its individuals read as follows: Elters in the speed and neither at bouldering and in the lead. In the last individual discipline, the 29-year-old Cologne tried to come through the route with a lot of pace, but when he fell with Handle 29+, he knew that his Olympic gate was over - mild smiling, he waved to the camera.

Megos himself was allowed to hope to be rinsed in the final field of the finalists. But the surprisingly strong Youngster Colin Duffy (USA) and Alberto Gines (Spain) made him a dash through the bill.

Jan Hojer lands in the qualification in place twelve. Getty Images

The possibly serious violation of Bassa Mawem washed Megos also not to the final. The 36-year-old Frenchman was a class in the Speed ​​and got a seat with 5.45 seconds sovereign place 1 and the already secure final participation. At the lead, however, he already flew from the wall from the wall and probably injured on the left upper arm biceps. But even with an injury-related failure of a finalist, the subscriber field is not filled up. "The door for Alex is too," Dav-National Trainer said Urs Stöcker after qualifying overlooking the regulations.

The door for Alex is too.

DAV-National Trainer Urs Stöcker

Questionable regulations: a K-.o.-duel less in the final

A questionable rule text, because in the final on Thursday, all three disciplines are climbed again and then in the Speed ​​K.O duels between two climbers are provided instead of pure time measuring to determine the important placement. Should Bassa Mawem be exhibited, only seven finalists would be left - and then Mawem's opponent would have been in Speed, Adam Ondra, a freil. The Czech, from all finalists in the speed qualification at the slowest (18th place 18), would have already been safe.

"It is of course very bitter, now to fly home with a ninth and twelfth place," said Bundestrainer Stöcker and supplemented: "We have to analyze that for sure and draw the right conclusions for the next cycle."

We certainly have to analyze that exactly and draw the right conclusions for the next cycle. "

DAV-National Trainer Urs Stöcker

This cycle refers to the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. In France's capital, two medals sentences will be awarded, namely one in the speed and one for the combination of bouldering and lead. Megos is likely to welcome this in principle, but the passionated rock climbers announced already to say goodbye to the competition climbing for the time being, "because there are far too many projects out there on the rock".

For a long time he had passed himself from the plastic walls, in 2017 "Purchased" Stöcker the Erlanger to return to the competition and attracted with Olympia. "For Tokyo, I changed the last years my climbing training to 80 percent," let Megos know in the run-up to the Olympic Games. This adventure ended with place nine prematurely and conceivable.

Megos: His Olympic project seems to end

When he gave time for the Olympia shift, Megos successfully completed a multi-year project on the rock in October 2020. He brought "bibliography" in the French Ceant - one of the two hardest routes in the world in difficulty 9C. He may recover this happiness of happiness on the way home from Tokyo. Despite a strong Olympic appearance. ## Megos, Hojer & Co: These 20 climbers have gold in their heads